Jill and Neil - interrailing for seniors: Summer 2024

  Friday 31st May We woke up with this view from our balcony. After all the travelling we had already decided we were going to have a quiet day and here seemed as good a place as any to spend it. Our apartment is right next to the Norman castle in Aci Castello. Like us, they got about a bit, those Normans. We had decided to eat in and so I set out to buy some fish. You know those moments when you realise you’re making a mistake with a purchase, but it’s too late to pull out? Well, after having asked the fishmonger to fillet the fish he then told me the price. Why, oh why, hadn’t I asked first? Particularly when I didn’t know what it was (pargo - or pauro in Sicilian dialect). €23 ! Still, I couldn’t ask him to unfilet it and it turns out pargo is red snapper, which is my favourite fish. For most of the morning we sat on the balcony, read and relaxed. I decided to go for a walk and dip my toes in the water. I spotted remnants of propaganda from the Mussolini era on one of the buildi...

Thursday 30th May Our lovely B&B The b and b gave us vouchers to use in a nearby coffee shop/ bakery. It was busy with Italians drinking their morning coffee and eating sweet rolls/ cream buns. It felt like an alien thing to have for breakfast. We met a lovely group of American students from    the University of Mississippi. They were there for a month to study Italian and visit places of interest. It was excellent to be with such bright, inquisitive young people. (Rather than this dull, old one? Ed) With a train journey of 7 hours ahead we settled into our seats in first class and watched the coastline below Salerno come into  view. This reminded me of interrailing in the 1970s At one point the conductor checked our online ticket and shook his head. ‘You’re on the wrong train’. We looked confused until he explained that there were two separate trains travelling together at present but one was going to Palermo and the other to Catania. We were on the wrong bit. So jus...

  Wednesday 29th May Back on the train again.  Another issue with touring by train is that occasionally you need to retrace your steps (wheels) in order to get expeditiously from A to B. So today’s trip involved a two hour return to Florence, before boarding the very rapid Frecciarossa to Salerno. I had thought I wouldn’t have much to write today, but it turns out Salerno is wonderful. We had chosen it as a useful stop-off point on our journey to Aci Castello in Sicily tomorrow, but now feel we would like to come back. Our B&b is in a 1200 year old building  The entrance to our B&B but once inside turned out to be quirky and lovely We were soon out enjoying the seafront  before seafood in a lovely sidestreet  Then the limoncello arrived: The limoncello hit the spot At one stage an old lady in a really short skirt  walked past, which we thought was odd. It turned out she was the chef. Next we took in some opera: before chatting to a 91 year old lady ...

Tuesday 28th May Last day in Perugia We will be sad to leave this lovely Umbrian city which has been so much more than we anticipated. Since 700 BC it has been a settlement and you quickly realise that you are experiencing a city within a city with its art, architecture and its vibrancy. At every turn and down every dark staircase it reveals its story. Anyone with a long weekend to spare add it to your list.  We began the day by planning to visit underground Perugia. As guided tours are compulsory Neil elected to return later for a tour in Italian.  Etruscan walls dating from 2nd century BC Roman road   The stunning frescoes at the thirteenth Exchange Guild are among the best in Italy. They were painted by Perugino Next was the Renaissance fortress of Rocca  Paulina built in the mid 16th century by Pope Paul 11 . Its key feature is that it was build on top of the buildings that were already there including Roman and medieval remains.  We chose a typical local re...